During a debrief at the end of my workterm in Botswana I was asked if I thought we were winning the war against HIV/AIDS. I didn't have a straight answer, I didn't really know how to answer the question. My job was to contribute to the cause: help the HIV/AIDS problem through the Holy Cross Hospice. Did I feel like my efforts were felt and appreciated? Yes. Do I feel the solution to this pandemic is close? No.
Being immersed in Botswana culture has enlightened me on the issues at hand. Despite the many efforts to plateau the infection rates, there is still stigma to fight and general behaviour and trend of relationships that stand in the way. No Batswana wishes others to know if they are infected and if they have yet to test, they usually don't want to know. Multiple partners are extremely common and the secret is kept to avoid any confrontation or abandonment. Gender inequality still plays a strong role in women being the hardest hit by HIV but it is getting better.
Having said that, I have seen progress and slowly we are getting somewhere. At the Hospice and other organizations like it, with the quality treatment provided, some patients are getting well enough to be discharged and start over, finding work etc. When I see this happen, I think, yes! we are winning but unfortunately the number of people we 'save' does not come close to matching the number infected each day and the number that die from it each day.
It's a sad reality, where we are at with all this. If I was asked how I think we should solve this problem in Botswana, I wouldn't have an answer. If I did, we wouldn't have the problem.
There was more to this trip than being on the front lines of HIV/AIDS. Despite the negative inuendos I may have portrayed of relationships there, I have met so many amazing people, great friends and coworkers. Batswana are a very caring and friendly people. I was also priviledged to network with people and organizations and I know I will be back, I think working overseas is a good fit for me.
My closing remarks:
There is no other way to live than in the moment. Sorry if that's super cliche but that's what I have learned most while away and I believe it whole-heartedly.
I do plan to continue to write, not sure when, where or what about but I will keep you in the know if you are interested in following my happenings.
Go siame (goodbye in Setswana)
Tuesday, December 30, 2008
Monday, December 15, 2008
Update
My workterm at the Hospice has come to an end. The last day was harder than expected, I was so excited about traveling I hadn't thought about saying goodbyes. Una, the hospice director, gave me the longest hug imagineable which started the waterworks. My 3 months at Holy Cross Hospice was incredible, the things I saw and people I met have changed me (for the better). I couldn't have wished for a better job placement.
Now, for the past week I have been in Zambia. A dwindling bank account forced me to reassess my traveling plans. Orinigally I was off to Mozambique but money was short and my companions were rethinking their plans as well. My new plan: revisit Vic Falls. I wanted to see the falls again once the water level had risen but my main reason for coming back was Jonathan. That's right, I have met a guy who is more than just a facebook friend once I go home. We met on my previous visit to the Falls and kept in touch during my stay in Botswana.
Jonathan is a professional kayaker and rafting guide on the Zambezi River so he knows the ropes around Livingstone
A 2-day canoe trip on the upper Zambezi started of our week, lots of sun and many hippos too close for comfort. We 'camped' on this island owned by a Scottish man named Brett who has a resort-like set up for Bundu's river trips,(Bundu is the rafting company Jonathan works for). There was an outdoor bar, dining room, kitchen and little chalet huts (so, not really camping then). I came back with a sunburn, a few blisters from paddling and a bit more respect for hippos. All in all it was a great trip.
The Flying Fox was the next day. A cable stretched across the gorge, me strapped in a harness, a running start and the feeling of flying across a river trying to reach the other side. A bit of a rush on that one.
The following day was river rafting. Jonathan was kayaking and taking pictures and I was in a raft with 4 Danish backpackers and a guide named Kevias. There are 25 rapids on the Zambezi, 24 that are runable. We were on a half day so after rapid 10 we pulled out for lunch. There were 3 class 5 rapids (highest level that are commercially run) and 1 class 6 which we had to walk around. It was so intense and exciting! I will save the details for later so not to worry anyone.
I went back to the Falls yesterday to see how different it was from a few months back. It's so impressive how much water there is and it's not even at its highest level yet.
Now, one week to go and I will be flying home for Christmas. It's bit strange because I don't feel as though it's approaching Christmas, I guess will just have to jump right in once I get home.
Trying to decide what to write about next, any ideas?
Now, for the past week I have been in Zambia. A dwindling bank account forced me to reassess my traveling plans. Orinigally I was off to Mozambique but money was short and my companions were rethinking their plans as well. My new plan: revisit Vic Falls. I wanted to see the falls again once the water level had risen but my main reason for coming back was Jonathan. That's right, I have met a guy who is more than just a facebook friend once I go home. We met on my previous visit to the Falls and kept in touch during my stay in Botswana.
Jonathan is a professional kayaker and rafting guide on the Zambezi River so he knows the ropes around Livingstone
A 2-day canoe trip on the upper Zambezi started of our week, lots of sun and many hippos too close for comfort. We 'camped' on this island owned by a Scottish man named Brett who has a resort-like set up for Bundu's river trips,(Bundu is the rafting company Jonathan works for). There was an outdoor bar, dining room, kitchen and little chalet huts (so, not really camping then). I came back with a sunburn, a few blisters from paddling and a bit more respect for hippos. All in all it was a great trip.
The Flying Fox was the next day. A cable stretched across the gorge, me strapped in a harness, a running start and the feeling of flying across a river trying to reach the other side. A bit of a rush on that one.
The following day was river rafting. Jonathan was kayaking and taking pictures and I was in a raft with 4 Danish backpackers and a guide named Kevias. There are 25 rapids on the Zambezi, 24 that are runable. We were on a half day so after rapid 10 we pulled out for lunch. There were 3 class 5 rapids (highest level that are commercially run) and 1 class 6 which we had to walk around. It was so intense and exciting! I will save the details for later so not to worry anyone.
I went back to the Falls yesterday to see how different it was from a few months back. It's so impressive how much water there is and it's not even at its highest level yet.
Now, one week to go and I will be flying home for Christmas. It's bit strange because I don't feel as though it's approaching Christmas, I guess will just have to jump right in once I get home.
Trying to decide what to write about next, any ideas?
Monday, December 1, 2008
World AIDS Day
Today is World AIDS Day. There are marches all over Gaborone, a strangely comforting scene, many people supporting activism to fight this pandemic. My contribution to the cause was to lead by example. Jen (a close friend and volunteer at the hospice) and I went to get tested for HIV. I wasn't worried about the result so I assumed it would be an experience undertaken just on principle.
We arrived at the testing centre, told the front desk we would like to be tested and were asked to wait in the queue. Being the minority in the room, the only two Lekgowa, 40 Batswana stared at us as we walked in. The waiting room is daunting, you can hear people's thoughts of judgement, everyone silently questioning how you ended up here. We waited about an hour and a half.
I felt the pressure and anxiety that others feel when the test result of your life is just moments away. Jen and I talked about how we thought we would react if we were told the worst. Honestly, I don't know how I would take such heavy news and I realized this is what it was like. This is what about 25% of Batswana live through.
Counselling was required before and after the test, we decided to go through it all together. When we first met with the counsellor, we were asked a series of questions, first being for why were we getting tested. That was followed by some generic questions for statistics and then we were sent into the testing room.
The rapid HIV test is what's used through most of Botswana and it is free to everyone. There is a little prick of the finger, blood is drawn and put on two test strips.
One red stripe = NEGATIVE, two red stripes = POSITIVE
It's a test for the white blood cell count (WBCs are building blocks of the immune system which is compromised when you have HIV).
More waiting.
When the time came for our results, we couldn't help but be nervous, it's contagious there. Before our status was declared, our backround was given, some very personal questions were asked and then, the silver platter was handed to us. As we lifted the lid, my stomach turned over and then, relief. One red stripe!
My registration card was stamped NEGATIVE and as Jen and I walked out of the clinic, we smiled at each other and put on our bracelets.
My bracelet says 'ke itse seemo sa me'
...which is Setswana for 'I know my status'
do you?
We arrived at the testing centre, told the front desk we would like to be tested and were asked to wait in the queue. Being the minority in the room, the only two Lekgowa, 40 Batswana stared at us as we walked in. The waiting room is daunting, you can hear people's thoughts of judgement, everyone silently questioning how you ended up here. We waited about an hour and a half.
I felt the pressure and anxiety that others feel when the test result of your life is just moments away. Jen and I talked about how we thought we would react if we were told the worst. Honestly, I don't know how I would take such heavy news and I realized this is what it was like. This is what about 25% of Batswana live through.
Counselling was required before and after the test, we decided to go through it all together. When we first met with the counsellor, we were asked a series of questions, first being for why were we getting tested. That was followed by some generic questions for statistics and then we were sent into the testing room.
The rapid HIV test is what's used through most of Botswana and it is free to everyone. There is a little prick of the finger, blood is drawn and put on two test strips.
One red stripe = NEGATIVE, two red stripes = POSITIVE
It's a test for the white blood cell count (WBCs are building blocks of the immune system which is compromised when you have HIV).
More waiting.
When the time came for our results, we couldn't help but be nervous, it's contagious there. Before our status was declared, our backround was given, some very personal questions were asked and then, the silver platter was handed to us. As we lifted the lid, my stomach turned over and then, relief. One red stripe!
My registration card was stamped NEGATIVE and as Jen and I walked out of the clinic, we smiled at each other and put on our bracelets.
My bracelet says 'ke itse seemo sa me'
...which is Setswana for 'I know my status'
do you?
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